THE DECOLOURIZATION
THE DECOLOURIZATION
The decolourization is the most effective way to bleach natural hair or coloured hair. The function of decolorizing products The function of bleaching products is to “lighten” the natural colour of the hair through the depolymerization of the melanin (protein that determines the colour of the hair) incorporated within the protein chains dispersed in capillary bark. Natural pigments that determine the Melanin are (red, blue, yellow).
Black- brown Pigment = Raper-mason Eumelanin synthetic pathway (easier to remove, because the pigments are grainy and more concentrated).
Pigment red-yellow = Feomelanina (more difficult to remove because its pigments are widespread and small) The relative proportion of the melanin determine the intensity and the shades of the natural colour. The process that produces “lightening” of the natural colour is called:
Decolourization (Bleach). Decolourization The mechanism of action consists in transforming the melanin contained in hair by means of oxidizing agents present in bleaching products. Among these, the more active is the ammonium persulfate that leads to the formation of ammonia (an important factor to encourage the penetration of the product). These oxidizing agents are mixed with peroxides (oxygenated waters at different volumes), to get the levels of lightening you want. These agents, once reached the melanin in the core of the hair, change their composition by reducing the molecular weight.
Mechanism of the action
The mechanism of the action is a chemical process that starts with the application of the products. Precisely:
- After the selection of the type of bleach to use , which is mixed with the appropriate peroxide, proceed to the application with tools and specific techniques according to the optimal results desired;
- During the processing time it is advisable to work out the hair strands to facilitate penetration of the bleaching product;
- Respect the processing time that can vary depending on the bleaching product used and the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
- Achieved the optimum level of high-lightening, proceed to rinse with warm water by eliminating thoroughly all residues;
- Only if necessary to proceed with a slight shampoo taking care not to stress the scalp and the hair;
- It is important, after the decolorizing action, use a toner on the hair with the desired colour, remembering that: “plateau” scale level + colouring = final result. After the processing time, which varies according to the porosity of the hair, the neutralization and the reflection, proceed to a careful rinsing, followed to a specific shampoo (Colour Lock Amphoten Shampoo ).
- To complete the treatment, apply a product with an acid pH ( Colour Lock Emulsion D ).
- If it were necessary, repeat the decolourization, without rinsing with water and with suitable means completely removing the product. Apply a small amount of conditioning, protective, moisturizing ( Colour Lock Midopla ), and proceed to a second application of bleach mixing with low volume developers.
DECOBES HIGHLIGHTENING POWDER UNIVERSAL WHITE
Features:
Non-volatile. Universal white high lightening powder, suitable to obtain lightening medium to high lift, carries out an action gradual and progressive allowing you to achieve the desired result without causing allergy to hair and skin.
Plus:
In its formulation is present a cationic protein, quaternized collagen, which performs a compensating action, moisturizing, protective and adjuvant.
Dilution Ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:2 (1 part Decobes universal white + 2 parts of Oxibes developer). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advices:
Ideal to obtain with extreme safety total decolourizations, partial and natural base high lightening. Recommended levels: To achieve from blond to platinum better apply on level 4-5 natural base.
Lightening power up to: 5 levels
Processing time: 60 minutes maximum
DECOBES DUST FREE APPLE FRAGRANCE – LIGHT GREEN POWDER
Features:
Dust free high lightening powder with controlled development. Allows you to achieve the degree of lift thank to a self-controlled process in lightening and favouring the accurate management of processing times.
Plus:
Thanks to its formula highly cosmetic rich of hydrolysates protein from wheat and corn starch plays a well-defined and balanced high lightening with full respect of the hair.
Dilution ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:2 (1 part Decobes DUST FREE + 2 parts of Oxibes developer ). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advices:
It is recommended to use DECOBES DUST FREE when you want to obtain results controlled and precise, reaching the tone of high-lightening perfectly in tune with the final colour.
Recommended Levels:
It is recommended to use Decobes DUST FREE on natural levels 4-5 to obtain blond with very natural effects.
Lightening power up to: 5-6 levels
Processing time: 60 minutes maximum
DECOBES KOMPACT PINE FRAGRANCE – BLUE POWDER
Features:
Dust free High-lightening powder, ideal for a colouring without unpredictable under tone results. Performs a uniform and controlled action. DECOBES KOMPACT allows to obtain neutral results in the total respect of the hair and the skin avoiding the under tone of the reflection.
Plus:
The presence of the derivative of the quaternized Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (L.) Gum, gives the hair softness and hydration (softening effect and conditioning) without creating phenomena of “build-up” (burden). Decisive effect for treated hair from the decolourizations.
Dilution Ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:2 (1 part DECOBES KOMPACT + 2 parts of Oxibes developer ). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advices:
It is recommended to use DECOBES KOMPACT when you want to obtain Platinum Blonds results without non desired undertones.
Recommended levels:
To obtain platinum effects it is recommended to apply DECOBES KOMPACT blue on 4-5 natural levels.
Lightening power up to : 6-7 levels
Processing time: 60 minutes maximum
DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY BLUEBERRY FRAGRANCE – VIOLET POWDER
Features:
Dust free high lightening powder DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY is formulated with components capable of appropriately calibrated high lightening action. In DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY components with high lightening function penetrate in the hair and act on melanins. A very important function of the decolourant DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY is to adapt the basic tone of the hair. To provide the opportunity to obtain neutral results by acting differently on the percentage of melanins present. The bleaching powder DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY characterized by a colour Blue-Violet acts by neutralizing the Yellow-Orange under tones, whereby is defined PURE WHITE.
Plus:
The cellulose gum present in the formulation protects the hair fiber. Thanks to this film-forming action gives body back by restructuring the hair.
Dilution ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:2 (1 part Decobes pure white BLUEBERRY + 2 parts of Oxibes developer ). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advices:
It is appropriate to use DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY when you wish to obtain results ultra-platinum to neutral effect.
Recommended levels:
The neutralizing effect of DECOBES PURE WHITE BLUEBERRY enables ultra-platinum tones from 3/4 natural levels.
Lightening power up to: 7/8 levels
Processing time: 60 minutes maximum
DECOBES CREAM
Features:
Decobes cream is a special and innovative cream. Allows you to work your hair in a simple way with a great high lightening power. Thanks to its creamy texture , given by the delicate emulsion (liquid paraffin), it can be applies with extreme ease and safety.
Plus:
The presence of jojoba oil plays a conditioning effect action that helps to maintain a stable hydro-lipid layer, thereby preventing damage to the hair and to the skin.
Dilution ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:1 (1 part Decobes crea m + 1 part of Oxibes developer ). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advies:
Use decobes cream for all types of lightening or when you want to get natural effects, to enhance the bright blonde tones. Decobes cream, given its affinity to the colour, can be mixed with BES HI-FI hair colour fashion series to obtain neutral blond colour. (Ex. 75 gr. Decobes crea m + 25 gr. BES HI-FI hair color fashion series).
Recommended level:
Use Decobes crea m on 4-5 Natural level to obtain platinum effects.
Lightening power up to: 6-7 levels
Processing time: Maximum 60 minutes
HIGH-LIGHTENING OIL
Features:
High-lightening oil with auto control system. Its self-locking system ensures an extreme work safety. Decobes OIL acts in three important steps: lifting, nutrition and high-lightening auto block action.
Plus:
Thanks to the content of lauramidopropyl betaine, substances derived from coconut oil, intervenes on the hair as a treatment product. The high-lightened hair is silky, shiny and expressive.
Dilution ratio:
Mix up to a maximum ratio of 1:1 (1 part Decobes OIL + 1 part of Oxibes developer ). The choice of Oxibes has to be considered in reference to the type, condition of the hair and to the degree of high-lightening that you want to reach.
Professional Advies:
It is recommended to use Decobes oil when you wish to obtain slight medium high-lightening, to get natural expressions of high-lights and shadows and contrasts. Decobes oil can be mix with BES Intensive to achieve Ex: 1 part Decobes Oil +1 part Oxibes + 1 part BES Intensive
Recommended level:
Use Decobes oi l on 4-5 Natural level to achieve natural and bright effects from Blond to light Blond
Lightening power up to: 3-4 levels
Processing time: Maximum 60 minutes
DECOBES REMOVER
Features:
Decobes re mover is not bleach. Its use allows you to remove in a progressive manner and delicate artificial colour pigments through a process of reduction without using bleaching powders. Does not act through an oxidizing action as it happens for the bleachers, but intervenes leaving unchanged the natural melanins. The high-lightening is limited under condition.Limited because DECOBES REMOVER intervenes only on artificial pigments of the oxidative colours by reducing them. Under condition because the result obtained will depend on the colour cosmetic applied previously.
Dilution ratio:
Mix the contents of the bottles 1 and 2 in equal parts and apply on hair. After the time of processing time must be rinsed thoroughly and make a gentle and delicate shampoo.
Professional recommendation:
After reaching the desired result it is recommended to perform a test using Oxibes to 20 volumes 6% on a small section of hair. If the section returns to appear dark (charge of pigment), the operator should re-apply DECOBES REMOVER somehow the contained artificial pigment in the hair has not sufficiently been removed.
Processing time:
Maximum 15 minutes. Toning: After you have reached the desired result, toning with the chosen colour by applying a nuance of 2 levels higher: Ex: if the colour to obtain is 6.0 , apply BES HI FI HAIR COLOR 8.0 with Oxibes 30 volumes 9%. Scouring actions with Decobes Remover:
- To eliminate side effects like toning, metallization and opacity of the colour, the processing time must be about 15 minutes
- To eliminate accumulation of colour as overlays and unsightly streaks the processing time must be around 30 minutes
- To obtain balance and reflection balancing the processing time must be about 30 minutes
- For the total change of the colour, to reach overtones, for change of nuances and for treatment pre discoloration the processing time must be of approximately 45 minutes. In some cases it is vital to repeat the Decobes Remover application.